A Han Juban or Half Under Kimono: Katazome Bodice and Interesting Details

early twentieth century
30 1/2" x 45", 77.5 cm x 114.25

This is a piece constructed han juban or a half under-kimono. It is made from re-purposed cloth as was custom in old Japan.

The body of the han juban is primarily indigo dyed katazome cotton in a repeat pattern of a network of jagged lines which is stylized pine bark inside which are images of cherry blossoms and what might be a grain measure.

The collar area shows a darkened piece of shirakage shibori that is stitched together with an interesting, old type of collectible cloth, an Edo period tenugui or hand cloth. This addition to the collar area is an exciting find as both of these types of cloth are desirable when found intact, and both of these pieces seem to be woven from hand spun yarns which is always good.

The center of the collar areas shows a pattern of katazome different from the bodice and just below it are two pink pieces which appear to be benibana or safflower dyed cotton however as they seem to have bled onto the undyed areas of katazome they might not be pure safflower dye, this is unclear.

Please note on the proper, right hand bottom hem of the han juban there is a small square of undyed cloth. This indicates that this part of the cloth was the end of the bolt that was used to create the garment. This kind of detail is always nice to notice.

The sleeves are of lightweight crepe silk and they seem to be a later addition. With traditional Japanese utilitarian textiles collars and sleeves were routinely removed or changed as needed or in order to prolong the lifetime of a garment.

This is a visually complex undergarment and one that has great age, good cloth and an overall pleasing aesthetic. 

Really lovely.