An Absolutely Beautiful Silk Juban: So Much Gromwell Root Dye

late nineteenth century
41" x 40", 104 cm x 101.5 cm (shoulder to hem x sleeve tip to sleeve tip)

The featured offering on last week's offerings was a girl's pieced silk juban which was not only beautiful but it was also in very good condition.

This pieced silk juban was acquired with last week's offering and although it does not necessarily mean they belonged to the same person in this case we know these two belonged to the same girl: pieces of katazome silk on the sleeve tops, back, are also found on last week's kimono.

This is interesting because it allows the mind to dream about more about the history of these garments and it also indicates that whatever lucky girl owned these was of some means. To own two of these pieces, each with very good silks, has to mean this was a fairly well-off family.

This little treasure is not only beautiful in its own right not only is it hand stitched from absolutely marvelous fragments of 19th century silk cloth, but it is also in very good condition for its age.

It is a lightly padded girl's juban or under kimono and it is pieced of fantastic old pieces. The sleeves and the area around the hem on front show katazome dyed silk that depict chidori or plovers running over tidal sand.  Also on the top of each sleeve is a design showing phoenixes and paulownia flowers, this is the same cloth seen on last week's offering.

The silk of the bodice is undoubtedly dyed in gromwell root or shikon dye and the sheer amount of this shikon dyed silk which is still vibrant in color and shows a fantastic repeat of crowded, layered chrysanthemums is a real coup for those interested in Japanese folk textiles or natural dyeing.

Please have a look at the collar area where a resist dyed rabbit fragment can be seen. This just adds to the charm and value of this piece.

The contrast between beautiful shades of blue and the rich purplish is fantastically beautiful. The choice of fabrics used for this garment is really, really good and it is a pleasure to offer this one for sale.

There are very few flaws to the silk overall and the value of the shikon dyed silk in such a marvelous pattern cannot be overstated.

Highly recommended.