An 19th Century Koshimaki: Old Katazome Dyed Crepe Silks

mid nineteenth century
26 1/2" x 46", 67 cm x 117 cm

This rectangle of double-sided cloth seems to have been a koshimaki or a kind of Japanese half-slip to be tied around the waist and worn under a kimono.

The face of the cloth is katazome dyed crepe silk whose pattern is that of chrysanthemums and broken pieces of the interlocking circles motif.

On the back, top, we see faded silk dyed in safflower: the swath on the left is plain while the pieces on the right are also katazome dyed. The bottom half is cotton.

These silk pieces were more than likely repurposed from an undergarment of a previous vintage as this type of silk in these kinds of patterns was mostly used for juban or han juban, two types of under-kimono.

Note some fraying to the top, left corner of the front of the piece and some fading and mottling to the orange pieces on the back.

This is a very good amount of old, totally botanically dyed silk that probably dates to the mid 19th century. The garment may have been assembled at a later date.

Lovely.