A Wonderfully Beautiful Kumanozome Yukata: Moire in Hemp or Ramie

early twentieth century
53" x 45", 134.5 cm x 114.5 cm

What a rare treasure. This is a finely woven hemp or ramie unlined kimono or yukata that is stencil dyed in indigo: the lush but subtle moire effect is spectacular. 

This kind of stenciled moire cloth is called Kumanozome: Kumanozome refers to a place of origin, an area near present-day Okayama Prefecture: Kumano is well-known for producing this type of optically entrancing cloth.  

Kumanozome is immediately recognizable for its decidedly "Op Art" moire effect of undulating, crossing lines.

Sometimes contrasting colors and values were used to heighten this effect while this one is stenciled from two tones of brown or rust colors.

Usually Kumanozome was designed in a larger format and with bolder effect than what we see here. The reason for that is that the large-scale designs were used for bedding--it is rare to find Kumanozome produced with such delicacy as we see here. It is also rare to see Kumanozome used for a garment.

Aside from the general rarity of Kumanozome applied to a kimono the pattern itself is wonderful to see: pore over the many detail photos here to see the stenciled design up close.

Overall this yukata is in good, used condition with the exception of a faint stain to the proper, left front bottom and the proper right, back bottom, both of these details difficult to see and both illustrated on individual photos here.

This is a hard-to-find beauty of an old textile and please enjoy seeing the photos here.

Very recommended.