A Pieced Juban Sleeve: Naturally Dyed 19th Century Silks

ca. mid nineteenth century
42" x 14", 106.5 cm x 35.5 cm

This marvelous silk collage was once the back panel of a yose juban, or a piece constructed under-kimono.  In the 19th century, yose juban were often fancifully sewn from scraps of brightly colored silk. 

Because this panel is taken from a garment that would not be seen, colorful silks were used to compose the juban.   In this case we see some very lightweight silks which are all hand dyed, all--with the probable case of the central, deep purple chirimen or crepe silk piece--dyed in botanical dyes.

The striped silks with floral roundels are stencil dyed; the floral images are dyed directly onto the cloth via stencils, the technique being called surikomi.

The "daisy" like silks were resist dyed in the katazome method with the yellow details being hand applied after the blue was set on the cloth.

This panel is entirely hand stitched of about 12 distinct pieces, has great age, and is very interesting to contemplate. There is one loose, horizontal seam
on the narrow pieces at approximately 10 o'clock; as well, there are some faint areas of wear and small holes.