A Length of Hemp or Ramie Edo Komon Cloth: Family Crest

mid nineteenth century
58" x 13", 147.5 cm x 33 cm

This is a length of the marvelous, nineteenth century katazome dyed hemp or ramie cloth known as Edo komon, or what can be translated as Edo era all-over patterned cloth.

Edo komon, is a small figured, all-over patterned cloth that was popular in the late Edo period (1603-1868).  

During this time period the central government enforced laws on the population which regulated almost all aspects of life, dress included.  

Most people in Edo era Japan were told by the government to dress in subtle, dark colors and small patterns; because of this, elaborate, very small patterned cloth was developed and then became popular, the reason being was that one could still wear figured clothing while not breaking any of the sumptuary laws that were laid down. 

Countless tiny-figured designs were developed during this period and for this reason we know that this cloth dates to the 19th century. In this case the tiny, all over, stencil resisted markings form rows that give a zigzag appearance. This, in fact, is a way of depicting a traditional Japanese design of arrow feathers.

A highlight to this length is the marvelously rendered, stylized ivy--a family crest--that appears at the tope of the length.

The relatively large size of the crest also tells us this is from the Edo period because in the later era, the Meiji, the size of family crests were made smaller for the purposes of discretion or not to be ostentatious.

A beauty in good condition.