A Fragment of Overdyed Indigo Stenciled Cotton: Iron Oxide Dye Pattern

late nineteenth, early twentieth century
20 1/2" x 12 1/4", 52 cm x 31 cm

This absolutely beautiful fragment of over-dyed indigo, hand spun and hand dyed cotton shows a ground of richly tone green colored cloth over which is stenciled a pattern of peonies and arabesques.

The stenciled pattern is applied directly to the cloth using an iron-oxide pigment dye which in Japan is called bengara. When applied over the warm green dyed cotton, the bengara pigment creates a wonderful, contrasting cool-warm tonal effect.  In this case, the effect is also quite low-contrast as the tone of the red color is almost the same as that of the over-dyed indigo.

The cotton is hand spun and hand woven and the length of cloth shows overall fading and light surface abrasion from decades of wear. 

Just gorgeous.