A Fragment from a Kamishimo: Intricate Katazome Pattern on Hemp or Ramie

late nineteenth century
25" x 15 1/2", 63.5 cm x 39.5 cm

This is a katazome dyed hemp or ramie fragment taken from a kamishimo or a traditional garment for samurai in feudal Japan. This fragment is taken from the top part, or the kataginu as it is called. 

The minuscule, almost-microscopic pattern which is resist dyed onto the cloth is referred to in Japan as Edo komon: Edo komon, is a small figured, all-over patterned cloth that was popular in the late Edo period (1603-1868).  

During this time period the central government enforced laws on the population which regulated almost all aspects of life, dress included.  

Most people in Edo era Japan were told by the government to dress in subtle, dark colors and small patterns; because of this, elaborate, very small patterned cloth was developed and then became popular, the reason being was that one could still wear figured clothing while not breaking any of the sumptuary laws that were laid down. 

On the top, left selvedge we see a vestige of half a family crest that would have been shown on the top, back of the kataginu.

As kamishimo are worn to this day by traditional musicians and actors it is unclear when this fragment was made, however the large size of the family crest, and the fact that it is faded as it is, suggests this fragment is indeed from the 19th century.

The cloth is stiff with an almost-brittle feel in the hand.