An Old Hand Pieced Cotton Han Juban: Clashing Patterns

early twentieth century
23 1/2" x 23", 59.5 cm x 58.5 cm

This very beautiful piece-constructed cotton jacket is a han juban or a half under-kimono. It is shown here inside-out.

The base cloth is of a wonderful black and white pattern that was dyed using the chuusen method, a type of stencil dyeing using a primitive vacuum that yields a "fuzzy" or slightly irregular dyed pattern.

The sleeves are made of two types of patterned cotton: one is of a modern-style blue, white and black pattern while the cuffs are of an Indian-style printed cloth.

The bodice is the black-and-white chuusen cotton, fairly heavy weight.

Onto this is stitched a beautiful old, indigo dyed katazome cotton cloth; the collar parts are also indigo dyed katazome showing an undulating blue-and-white pattern.

There is one contrasting patch to the proper, right shoulder area. The itself collar is reinforced by a dark blue colored jacquard silk.

The entire garment is hand stitched and the random piecing of old cottons yields a charmingly appealing design.

Recommended.