An Itajime Dyed Han Juban: Well Worn Soft Orange Toned Cotton

late nineteenth, early twentieth century
23" x 31", 58.5 cm x 78.75

This is a faded and well-used han juban or half under-kimono. It is hand stitched from  lightweight cotton  whch was dyed in the itajime method, a resist dye technique which uses carved boards and applied pressure to resist the cloth in order to produce patterns.  

Itajime dyed cloth shows an all over repeat pattern in mirror image, the mirror image aspect is the result of the dyeing method using the carved boards described above.

The han juban shows two patterns of itajime cotton and both are rather elaborate in the amount of design motifs shown on each of them.

One pattern is based on paulownia flowers, a broken interlocking circle motif and a diamond flower. The other pattern shows plum blossoms, cherry blossoms and what appears to be a kind of bamboo motif.

The dye might or might not be safflower or benibana, but it appears to be so. There is quite serious fading to the entire garment, more in some parts than others. Some of the hand stitched seams have loosened a bit. As well there seems to have been another section to each of the sleeves which has been removed at some point.

This is a wonderful example of itajime dyeing and even better that there are two patterns of it which are made up into this attractive garment.

A delight to see.