An Indigo Dyed Cotton Work Vest from Northern Japan: Sashiko Stitched Gussets

early twentieth century
should to hem x the widest point when laying flat: 27" x 20", 68.5 cm x 51 cm

This very dark indigo toned, fairly heavily woven indigo dyed cotton sleeveless garment is referred to as a sodenashi which literally means "without sleeves."

It is a work vest that is reinforced on the shoulder area (front and back) by a layer of hand woven, striped cotton cloth which is done to protect the garment and the wearer of it from harsh contact with whatever burden is being carried. This is a fairly standard practice and is seen often of sodenashi of this type.

As well, there are two sashiko stitched side gussets which are stitched in a pattern of arrow feathers; one of the two gussets is mended with a patch.

The entire garment is very dark in indigo tone, including the sashiko stitching. This indicates that the garment was vat dyed in indigo after the stitching was done. The collar and back/shoulder reinforcement were added afterwards.

The garment shows light but consistent wear which can be seen in the slight marks made from the pleating or gathering of the cloth on the front, top of the garment, signs of repeated work or activity.

This is an attractive garment to own, to study and to display as it is truly work wear from old Japan, more than likely from Yamagata prefecture in Tohoku, the rural, northeastern part of Honshu island.

Recommended.