A Very Good Sakiori Work Vest: Indigo Rag Weft and Bast Warp

early twentieth century
33 1/2" x 23 1/2", 85 cm x 59.5 cm

For anyone seriously interested in sakiori weaving or in old traditional Japanese work garments this spectacular jacket is one worth considering.

As presented this garment is a vest or sleeveless coat.

In reality there would have been sleeves attached: there are some loose cotton threads which indicate this. This is normal: on work wear like this sleeves and collars were routinely taken off and replaced if and when necessary as in the case of this one.

But it is so much more that make this sakiori garment the very high quality piece it is.

First is the bast warp--possibly hemp, maybe another bast.

When collecting sakiori it is always a plus to find one woven with a warp of bast yarns. When originally conceived around two centuries ago sakiori was woven from cotton rags by those who purchased rags as they had no access to cotton garments or full cloth. As there was no access to cotton material you can imagine there was no access to cotton thread at that time. Therefore a point of connoisseurship with sakiori is that it is always best to have a piece with a bast warp. Sometimes this indicates age, sometimes this indicates the piece was woven in a rural area, sometimes this indicates it might have been woven during the war when there was a lack of common goods--but it always indicates the original spirit of sakiori weaving.

Along with the bast warp evident on this piece we also see that mainly indigo and deep-toned cotton cloth has been shredded to become yarn. Indigo sakiori is the most desirable and this one has plenty of it. The deep and somber color tones shown here are rich and reflect back to the origins of sakiori weaving when only indigo dyed cotton was available to be turned into rag weft.

Finally it is the very good quality and condition of the jacket that is the icing on the cake. It is or was lightly worn and the surface is still rich, textured and deeply toned.

This is a fantastically good sakiori work coat. Please note: when seen in person in natural light the coat shows a much bluer or more indigo cast that the photos indicate.

Highly recommended.