A Teen Aged Girl's Pieced Juban: Rich Colors and Patterns

early twentieth century
51" x 47 1/2", 129.5 cm x 121 cm
measurements are: shoulder to hem x sleeve tip to sleeve tip

This pieced, hand stitched garment is called a juban which is a garment worn under a kimono. It is made from re-purposed, commercially produced cloth.

Its bodice is cotton and it shows an unusual pattern of rich, ripe persimmons and chrysanthemums, two autumnal subjects. The sleeves and skirt seem to be of a fine wool--or a wool/silk blend--and show a dreamy pattern of softly back-lit pine needles of chrysanthemums. Let us say that it is a design made of splayed lines.

The collar is of hand embroidered crepe silk, the embroidery threads are rather thick and the pattern is well-stitched.

The lining is of a bright red cotton. 

The condition overall is very good with the exception of a stain to the inside (shown) and a small hole to the bottom, near the hem, also shown.

The combination of the beautifully printed and colored bodice cotton with the sleeves and skirt cloth is a bit loud and jarring. Very often under-kimono showed such saturated and clashing colors. Traditionally speaking most kimono were of subtle color tones unless you were of the upper class: in old Japan color vibrancy was indulged in in under garments which were not meant to be seen--a guilty pleasure, one could say.

Lovely.