A Stencil Resisted Sekka Itajime Shibori Han Juban: Mixed Media
mid twentieth century
shoulder to hem: 20 3/4", 52.5 cm
sleeve tip to sleeve tip: 43", 109 cm
This dazzling garment is a han juban, or a half under-kimono.
It is hand stitched from a wonderful type of sekka shibori, a kind of shibori where cloth is folded and clamped before it is dyed so that when it is opened, a kaleidoscopic flower pattern emerges. In this case, you can see that there is a field of small, white flecks throughout this sekka shibori pattern. Most likely the cotton was stencil resisted before the shibori clamping was done, which causes this snowstorm effect on the shibori. Just fantastic.
Notice, too, on the collar portion of the han juban there is another small piece of shibori, arashi or storm shibori, and on the bottom of the collar is a pair of printed cotton, blue-on-white.
The two stove pipe-shaped sleeves on this garment are of different types of indigo dyed cottons, and each is of a different length! Quite odd. The longer one is repaired and is of a lighter shade of blue than the other. Note the small stain shown on the accompanying photograph.
This is a visually fascinating garment and one that will continue to give great pleasure over time.