A Shirakage Shibori Koshimaki: Half Under Kimono
early twentieth century
29" x 45", 73.5 cm x 114.25 cm
This indigo dyed shibori garment is a koshimaki or a kind of Japanese half-slip to be tied around the waist and worn under a kimono.
This particular one is made of shirakage or "white shadow" shibori. It is a difficult technique to practice because of the need to stitch in a design and then hide all that is not stitched in order to resist those areas from receiving dye once the entire cloth is immersed in an indigo vat.
The cotton is slightly gauzy in weight and the cotton is of good, old quality. If it is not hand spun it gives the feeling that it is.
The top of the koshimaki is a wide band of undyed cotton which terminates in two, narrow ties. There is one coin-sized hole at the bottom, right and a faint stain to the left, top area, both shown on the detail photos attached.
A central panel is hand stitched to the center of the proper back of this piece. This is to protect the seam in that area from splitting--the koshimaki was held behind the wearer and drawn to the front of the body where the ties were secured. The central reinforcement helped keep the koshimaki intact.
This is a very nice example of shirakage shibori and even better that it is presented as an intact garment.
Recommended.