A Shibori Han Juban: Complex Dyeing
ca. mid twentieth century
21" x 48", 53.5 cm x 122 cm
This is a wonderfully complex han juban, or half under-kimono--which is hand sewn from six different types of cotton fabric.
Most noticeable is the bodice, which appears to be made from a kind of machine-aided shibori that was pleated in two directions in order to achieve the gradient, indigo diamond pattern. Over this pleated shibori is a pattern of stencil applied motifs that seem to be some kind of chrysanthemum/ cherry blossom hybrid. Really lovely work.
Notice the sekka shibori on the stepped sleeves--but look closely. This itajime or clamp dyed method of shibori is familiar to many, but in this particular case it looks like the cotton was stencil resisted before the cloth was clamped into the snowflower or sekka pattern, as the indigo shows a patterned flurry of resisted marks, reminiscent of a snowstorm Very unusual--and very beautiful.
Then ends of both of the stepped sleeves show a commercially produced cotton; this part of the sleeve is lined in yet another commercially produced cotton.
The collar, or eri, is lovely too, and quite different from the body of the under kimono. It is made from silk which has been delicately embroidered with silk flowers, sixteen in all, some of them a bit worn.
This marvelous and unusual yose han juban is in very good condition, and it shows a marvelous assortment of very good cloth.