A Richly Detailed Cotton Boro Han Juban: Stepped Sleeves

mid to late nineteenth century
shoulder to hem: 23", 58.5 cm
sleeve tip to sleeve tip: 48", 122 cm

This is a piece constructed han juban or half-under kimono, which is entirely hand stitched of cottons and shows a lovely pair of stepped sleeves.

The base cloth for this under kimono is a beautifully faded, intricately stencil resist dyed cotton called Edo komon, a kind of small figured pattern that was popular in the late 18th through mid 19th centuries.  In order to show the hand piecing of this garment, it is shown inside-out.

To reinforce the shoulder area is a very faded piece of katazome dyed cotton showing stylized flower forms.   Two, large patches of indigo dyed cotton flank this central panel, and the two indigo pieces wrap over the shoulder, from front to back.  Each indigo fragment shows white stitching.

The longer piece of the stepped sleeve is an indigo dyed cotton katazome piece which is detailed with a complex pattern that combines traditional, Japanese motifs: stylized, linear hemp leaf and pine bark designs dominate these fragments.  The sleeve ends are a combination of dark, brown-colored cottons which are neatly pieced together.

A really marvelous garment for its age and for its wonderful execution, this boro han juban is recommended.