A Mid Nineteenth Century Silk Han Juban: Shibori in Natural Dyes

mid nineteenth century
25" x 24", 63.5 cm x 61 cm

This beautifully colored and executed garment is a han juban or a half under kimono.

It is made of pieces of re-purposed shibori dyed crepe silk which were colored with safflower (orange) and gromwell root (purple). It is lined in a yellow dyed, hand spun, hand woven cotton of good texture and age.

The designs on the front and the back are stylistically very different from one another.

The front shows alternating bands of stitched and tied safflower and gromwell root shibori while the back is primarily a floral pattern in large repeat. Note the addition of blue and brown dyes which are used to add tonal effect to the pattern.

There were once sleeves to this garment which have been removed. This is not uncommon as sleeves and collars were often removed or replaced.

The collar area of this garment is made from the impossibly small-figured cloth referred to as Edo komon which was a popular type of luxury cloth in the late Edo period, dating around the early 19th century.

Displaying this piece is a great idea: its square format lends itself to this, as does its spirited and expertly done shibori.

The age of this piece should be noted as it is one of its beauties.

Recommended.