A Meiji Era Safflower Dyed Silk Han Juban: Itajime Dyed

late nineteenth century
27" x 46", 68.5 cm x 117 cm

This is a pieced, crepe silk half under kimono that is hand stitched from several different types of silks, the most prominent one being faded safflower (or benibana) dyed silk showing multi-stylized, large-scale cherry blossoms.

The repeat pattern was resist dyed onto the silk using carved boards and pressure in a process called itajime or kyoukechi. The benibana dye, being notoriously light fugitive, is faded and mottled as can be amply seen on the attached detail photos.

As well, there is a fairly large loss to the silk on the proper bottom, right of the han juba--and this loss exposes the deep red cotton lining of the garment.

For those able to or interested in patching over this loss, an old benibana dyed silk piece measuring 36" x 5 1/2" or 91.5 cm x 14 cm is included for the purposes of mending this hole.

Note as well the feeble, worn condition of the 19th century, intricately katazome dyed pieces that appear on the sleeves.

Although this piece is in fair condition, it is one that shows very good age, has an enviable amount of old itajime dyeing in safflower and is a beautiful, authentic garment from old Japan.

Recommended.