A Length of Tightly Designed Zanshi ori: Leftover Yarns

early twentieth century
56" x 13", 142 cm x 33 cm

Zanshi ori is cloth that is woven from threads either leftover from home production of yarn making, or from broken threads that were purchased from local commercial weavers.  Usually the weft is fed with these random threads while generally the warp is regulated producing an irregular horizontal 'striping'; if home threads are used, knotted slubs can often be seen.

This length is interesting for its overall tight plaid effect--this is the result of the warp yarns being set in a dense, narrow repeat of light and dark. With the leftover weft yarns woven against this type of warp a dense, small "plaid" such as this one is made.

There is some overall light fading and some general surface wear to the length--as well as an are with a small cluster of holes (shown on the detail photo here). Oon the opposite side to the one shown here or the proper "back" of the garment shows slubs from yarns being tied together to create one, long filament. 

This is a very good length of zanshi ori, fascinating to study for its use of remaindered or saved weft yarns.