A Length of Benibana or Safflower Dyed Cotton: Orange/Pink

early twentieth century
47" x 13", 119.5 cm x 33 cm

This is a length of cotton that has been dyed using safflower or, as it is called in Japan, benibana. Benibana dye yields a range of color from pale yellow to a deeply toned, almost "shocking"pink color, depending on how the dye was manipulated and which mordant was used to set it.

This length is a kind of fuschsia pink with orangeish undertones. In order for a dyer to achieve a true pink the benibana dyestuff must be purged of its yellow tones. After that is done the cloth is dyed and then, depending on the mordant, will transform into a pink color.

This length is not the true, bluish pink that some benibana dye yields as it is a bit on the warm spectrum. But its beguiling color is wonderful to look at--and for those who are interested in natural dyeing this length is a wonderful piece to study.

Safflower dye is notoriously fragile and light fugitive and we see evidence of this here: the mottling of the dye from light fading makes this very clear: some of the other areas of irregularity might have something to do with skin contact as it seems this length came from the lining of a garment. 

The cotton is old and nicely woven and this color tone of benibana is a joy to behold, and somewhat rare.