A Hemp or Ramie Kasuri Dyed Jacket: Omi Jofu

late nineteenth, early twentieth century
32" x 36", 81.5 cm x 91.5 cm

This is an indigo dyed hemp or ramie kasuri (ikat) woven jacket, probably of a type known as a dochugi or traveling coat which is a garment worn over a kimono. Its ties at the center of the piece indicate this might be the case.

If you notice tucks in the cloth on the shoulder area of this garment you will understand that it was made for a child or adolescent whose frame has not yet achieved adult dimensions.

The cloth is really lovely and fine; it is probably from the region around Omi which produced some of the most high quality hemp and ramie kasuri cloth in Japan. It was a major center of production and trade.

The pattern on the cloth is interesting as it shows a repeat pattern of hand held fans and folding fans each flanked by plum blossoms. Also shown are bamboo and pairs of pine needles which, in combination with the plum blossoms form the well-known and highly auspicious triad of images called shochikubai.

Overlaid onto this pattern is a repeat of warp-based white "slashes" which add a dazzling effect to the design.

The condition overall is very good as there does not seem to be any significant damage to the coat itself with the exception of a very short and narrow trail of what appears to be insect damage to the bottom of  back of the proper, right hand sleeve.

Still very wearable and a very handsome old garment.

Dimensions noted above are shoulder to hem x sleeve tip to sleeve tip.