A Hand Spun Cotton Happi: Resist Dyed

late nineteenth century
35" x 48", 89 cm x 122 cm

This happi--or a coat used either as a uniform for work or for someone participating in a festival--is beautifully woven from richly textured hand spun cotton. The coat is entirely hand stitched as well.

The color and pattern both are unusual.

The pale mocha tone of the dye, most assuredly plant-derived, is attractive. The boldly geometric resisted designs are fairly unusual and very attractive in their graphic appeal. The zigzag bottom is especially eye-catching as is the pared-down motif that enhances the top of the coat from sleeve to sleeve.

The happi is marked fairly consistently with some stains and ingrained dirt, most noticeably the dark stain in the center of the back of the jacket which, although prominent, can easily be patched over if you care to take the time.

The ample detail photos here aim to illustrate some of the other faint stains to the sleeves and body of the jacket.

Wonderful for its "thread flavor" which is an important judging criterion in Japanese folk textiles this jacket could very possibly be from the mid nineteenth century, older than estimated in the caption that leads this post.