A Curiously Dyed Han Juban: Itajime Dyed Sleeves and Faux Kasuri Bodice
early twentieth century
26" x 41", 66 cm x 104 cm
A han juban is a short garment worn under a kimono. This particular han juban is beautifully colored and shows good age--and it also contains some interesting details.
First among the interesting details are the sleeves and the strip of cotton which lines part of the interior. The sleeves and this lining piece are of hand spun, hand woven cotton which have been dyed in the itajime method, a dyeing technique in which pressure is applied to a length of cloth which is sandwiched in between elaborately carved boards. Pressure from the boards is forced on the cloth causing a resist. In the case of this han juban, it seems that these gauzy cotton piece were dyed using safflower or benibana.
The bodice also shows a curious effect. At first glance it appears that the cotton of the bodice is a kasuri or ikat woven cloth. Upon closer inspection, and when the garment is opened, it is clearly seen that the bodice has been hand dyed, presumably using stencils directly onto the cloth, in order to achieve a faux kasuri effect. Quite amazing and beautiful. And the type of cloth it is mimicking is a kind of woven silk that is commonly seen in 19th century women's kimono undergarments.
Note a splotch of light colored "staining" on the proper right, front of the han juban.
The collar portion is a wide piece of damask woven silk which shows some worm holes and some slight discoloration.
A very charming kimono accessory from old Japan with very good--and quite a lot of--itajime dyed cotton pieces.