A Crepe Silk Han Juban: Itajime Pattern in Safflower Dye

early twentieth century
27 1/2" x 46", 70 cm x 117 cm

This beautifully dyed and constructed silk garment is a han juban or a half under kimono. 

The bodice of this han juban is what is so interesting.  It is made of chirimen or crepe silk which has been dyed in the itajime or kyoukechi method, a complex dyeing technique using pressure exerted onto cloth which is sandwiched between hand carved boards: the pressure from the carved boards resists dye and imprints the cloth with a pattern.

This particular han juban is partially dyed in a botanical safflower or benibana dye which can yield an orange color as can be seen here.  The symmetrical or mirrored image is the result of dyeing in the itajime method.

Note as well the beautiful, silk lining, also dyed in benibana: in this case the color has aged and has been affected by direct contact with the body so the color is varied from orange to orange-yellow. 

The sleeves are made of heavy weight crepe silk that have been taken from a kimono. Each of the sleeves is of a slightly different color tone. The silk tie which is affixed to the back of the garment is a lovely detail.

A simply beautiful garment in slightly fragile, used condition, it is one that speak volumes about every day life in old Japan.

Recommended.