A 19th Century Piece Constructed Silk Han Juban: Stepped Sleeves

late nineteenth century
28 1/4" x 47 1/2", 71.5 cm x 120.5 cm

This artfully piece-constructed silk garment is a han juban or a half under-kimono. Undergarments like this one were common all over Japan and, like this one, they were hand stitched from old silk pieces which were often either left over or repurposed.

The bodice of this particular one is especially lovely for its somewhat fragile tsumugi silk that is dyed an orange color. This orange is the result of dyeing in benibana or safflower. The pattern of an elongated asanoha or hemp leaf was achieved by clamp dyeing or itajime which uses carved boards and pressure to resist patterns onto cloth.

The lining of this garment is a flyaway weight silk which is also dyed in benibana or safflower,

The stepped sleeves are a feature sometimes seen on this type of garment and in this case katazome dyed silk is used as an element in creating them.

The boldly geometric design element of the strong "T" shape on the back of the han juban is especially nice and the overall look and the good, used condition of this piece make it a desirable silk han juban.

Recommended.