A Katazome Dyed Han Juban: Three Patterns

early to mid twentieth century
23" x 24", 58.5 cm x 61 cm

This is a seemingly unused han juban or a half under-kimono--its sleeves are either missing or have never been stitched to the bodice. Sleeves and collars on Japanese clothing were routinely taken off to be changed and refreshed so it is not unusual to find an undergarment like this one to be lacking its sleeves.

The indigo dyed katazome cotton is crisp and deep in color. Three separate patterns of it were used in the making of this han juban: one for the bodice, one for the collar and one for the collar lining. 

The pattern on the bodice is a variation on fundo tsunagi or a design called "linked weights." The outer collar's pattern shows diamonds of stylized wisteria leaves and the collar lining shows a lovely, desirable design of willow branches.

This piece shows a lovely combination of patterns all done in indigo dye and the sum total of them as arranged on this han juban makes for a very traditional Japanese garment.

Beautiful.