An Indigo Dyed Work Coat: Kasuri Outside, Shibori Inside
mid twentieth century
39 1/4" x 49", 99.5 cm x 124.5 cm
This is a really handsome and visually arresting indigo dyed cotton jacket which is shown here inside-out in order to fully illustrate its lining, which is surprisingly beautiful.
The lining shows a spare form of nui or stitched shibori of indigo dyed cotton. The sleeves are lined in a dark, large-scale plaid cotton. And zipping up the back of the lining is a narrow piece of red, striped cotton: a daring detail.
All of this visual complexity is interesting in itself but when shown against the proper exterior of the coat which is a repeat pattern of white-on-blue kasuri cotton, the entire nature of one's appreciation is heightened.
The type of kasuri cotton shown on the proper exterior of the coat is a very popular type and was seen on many, many garments in the first half of the 20th century and even before.
The clarity and the regularity of its pattern contrasted with rustic nature of the lining's shibori is really wonderful to behold. Of course if you were to wear this it could be worn as shown.