A 19th Century Pieced Silk Juban: Botanical Dyes

late nineteenth century
58" x 49", 147.5 cm x 124.5 cm

This is a magnificently designed, executed and colored silk juban which is still in very good condition for its age and material.

A juban is an under-kimono and often they were made from pieces as this one is.

The pieces that constitute most of the garment are crepe silk which are shibori dyed in safflower or benibana (the orange color) and gromwell root or shikon (the purple color). Both of these dyes are light fugitive so it is impressive their color is still so vibrant.

The design and layout of the pieces is striking and bold as is quite evident from seeing this piece as shown both front and back.

There are slight condition issues: there are small holes to the katazome dyed silk of the collar (front, shown in detail photos) and there is a line of intermittent loss along the fold of the top of the sleeve (not shown as it was hard to photograph). There is also some red colored staining on the left and right panels of the bodice, front, shown in detail.

But this is a really wonderful example of an old, pieced juban and one that has an impressive amount of gromwell root dyed silk that is still shows very good, rich color.

A fantastic piece.

Recommended.